In Paris, Rochas and Van Noten and Surprise

By CHRISTINA BINKLEY and CHRISTINA PASSARIELLO

Paris

The daffodils are sprouting, and the city is overrun with dressed-to-kill fashion editors. It's the start of the final week of Fashion Month.

Reuters

Dries van Noten's show Wednesday at the Hotel de Ville in Paris.

Following the elegantly wearable clothes shown in New York and Milan, Paris designers get their turn. One highlight of the week is the Viktor & Rolf show; you never know what they will come up with. The other is the Chanel show, which is always held at the most dramatic of venues: the Grand Palais.

The Rochas Revival

It has been fun to watch Marco Zaninirevive the venerable house that Procter & Gamble shut down in 2006 and revived last year. His first collection three seasons ago tiptoed, showing delicate, very conservative French looks that paid homage to the late founder, Marcel Rochas. In October, he showed clothes that were just lovely.

On Wednesday at the Place Vendôme, Mr. Zanini's collection was full of exuberant character and it became clear who he sees as his customer: a young (or young-at-heart) woman who is a bit kooky. The nutty wide heels flared out psychedelically, the gold-brocade bell-bottoms were a riot, and the easy tailoring on a series of tunics and jackets over dresses offered looks for day and evening. Boy-cut sweaters, flat boots and a gold-brocade tunic over matching slight bell-bottom pants—this Rochas woman knows how to have fun.

Sporty and Dressy

Dries van Noten set the tone for the week with a mix of sporty and fancy looks Wednesday. The Belgian designer is renowned for his use of prints. For next winter, he showed a purple silk skirt with strokes of black, made casual by two back pockets like a pair of jeans. A violet silk skirt with a ruffled train was paired with an oversized, slouchy sweatshirt. Mr. van Noten's ethnic-looking clothing also took a turn for the sporty, with a heavily embroidered black and silver dress with green safari sleeves.

Write to Christina Binkley at christina.binkley@wsj.com and Christina Passariello at christina.passariello@wsj.com